The Hamburg district St. Pauli (formerly known as “Hamburger Berg” until the years 30 of the 18th century and later renamed after its central church) is a vibrant district in Hamburg, with a history shaped by sailors, workers, and outsiders who helped forge its famously rebellious spirit. Once known primarily for its harbor life and the nightlife of the “Reeperbahn,” (the lifeline through St. Pauli), it evolved into a symbol of counterculture, especially during the late 20th century when activists, artists, and squatters resisted gentrification and stood for social justice.
Interesting, but barely useful to know: The name "Reeperbahn" comes from Low German and refers to a ropewalk. In the 17th and 18th centuries, ropemakers "Reepschläger" produced ropes and cables "Reepe" for shipping there. These craftsmen needed long, straight stretches of land, which is why they moved outside the former city gates of Hamburg, into what is now the St. Pauli district.
Today, the district is widely associated with values of tolerance, diversity, and solidarity, embracing people from all walks of life, regardless of background or identity. Its virtues are reflected in its strong community ethos, political engagement, and commitment to inclusivity – making St. Pauli not just a place, but a mindset rooted in openness and resistance to conformity. It is also the most prominent of Hamburg’s red-light districts.
You remember my daytime outfit, don’t you? This is not how I would want to walk around St. Pauli at night. For that reason, I picked a demurer, but by no means less feminine, outfit for my evening in St. Pauli, consisting of sparkly jeans, a red satin blouse, a black blazer, and black ankle boots.
The elevator, going from preparation to performance
Killing time with some “Cougar Juice"
The “Gruß aus St. Pauli” mural on “Spielbudenplatz” is designed in the style of a nostalgic postcard, showing a colorful collage of St. Pauli. It brings together typical elements of the district – such as nightlife scenes, neon lights, sailors, partygoers, and iconic “Kiez” characters. Among these figures, rock musician Udo Lindenberg (with his iconic hat and sunglasses) appears to be a recognizable and likely intentional reference. All other people depicted are unknow to me (shame on me).
Sex House. Hot, hot, hot.
“Heiße Ecke” literally “Hot Corner” is a large snack stand on “Spielbudenplatz.” It offers food items typical for such establishments, such as grilled sausage with or without “Brötchen,” regular and sweet-potato French fries, AND “the hottest curry sausages of Hamburg.” A preferred drink with all of that is “Astra beer,” a Hamburg staple.
Just a 180-degree turn on your heels is “Schmidts Tivoli,” where Franzi was heading to see “Heiße Ecke – the St. Pauli Musical.” It has run here at its debut location since September 2003.
Before the show
The theater filling up
Franzi at her assigned seat. Seating was really tight. Once you had found your place and body posture, no more move possible.
The piece places the kiosk and snack stand “Heiße Ecke” as the central location of several interrelated storylines that last pretty much 24 hours. Around this small kiosk, a wide range of characters – tourists, partygoers, sex workers, night‑shift workers, gamblers, long‑time locals, and lovers – cross paths, each bringing their own hopes, frustrations, and dreams. Rather than following a single main plot, the show weaves together many short, humorous, and sometimes touching episodes, creating a lively and affectionate portrait of everyday life on St. Pauli, with all its rough edges, warmth, and humanity.
As the temperature was still tolerable that evening, and it was not too late and lots of people were in the streets, Franzi walked the 25 minutes back her hotel to have night cap: gin tonic!
Here ends day number three of Franzi’s extended weekend trip crossdressed. But there was still one day to go and one outfit to be worn.
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